What a Character
What a Character
Before I went to Brussels, I'd been told comic strips were very popular. I knew about Tintin, but I'd never come across this character before. Maybe one of you can tell me who it is. I'm pretty sure I once had a nightmare that looked something like this. At any rate, this was a convenient place to secure a bicycle, right outside of the famous pub, A La Mort Subite.
Update: Rudy writes in to say, "The sculpture, La Cycliste, is by the artist and cat lover, Alain Séchas.
Check out his site."
Sudden Death at A La Mort Subite
We took a roundabout walk from Brussels' Grand Place on a hot day, and ended up, thankfully, at A La Mort Subite. Famous for its beer of the same name (the name translates to Sudden Death), the family-run pub has the same decor as when it originally opened in 1928. I'm not a big beer drinker, but even I found a beer I liked here. Called Framboises (raspberries), it had the sweet, light taste of a flavored wine.
Kriek is also popular here; it tastes like cherry soda, with a kick.
Don't Forget to Look Up
The entire length of Galeries Royales St. Hubert is covered in a glass ceiling. The building is filled with shops and cafes, but even if you're not in a shopping mood, the building is worth stopping in to see. Inside, seating in the style of sidewalk cafes allow patrons to people-watch without staying outside in the weather. What will you find there? Chocolate, clothing, shoes, and more chocolate.
Must Have Moules et Frites
We heard about the self-proclaimed "world famous" Chez Leon from the cab driver within minutes of arriving in Brussels. Situated on a side street off the Grand Place filled to bursting with tourist-filled sidewalk cafes, Chez Leon was a festive place to try the Brussels classic, moules et frites (mussels and Belgian-style French fries.) Tables are squeezed together and service is rushed and efficient.
At dusk the entire street lights up with neon. Touristy, yes, but we enjoyed our introduction to Brussels -- although they will tell you, right on the menu, that the mussels are probably from somewhere else.
You're From Where??
At Chez Leon, tables are packed right up next to each other, so you can't help but get to know your neighbor. We visited in August, which is the prime tourist season, and explains why everywhere we went, we sat next to tourists. (That is, everywhere we went on the trip, from Amsterdam to Paris, and not just the touristy areas like this one.) Our neighbor at Chez Leon was visiting from just outside London.
Family-Style Dining on rue des Bouchers
The atmosphere outside Chez Leon on rue des Bouchers, even after dark, was family-friendly. A musician strolled the crowd, playing songs like "Hava Nagila" and the "Chicken Dance." Inexplicably, a man in a Mickey Mouse costume was also entertaining the children. Chez Leon even offers the children's menu free.
The Most Popular Spot to Sit
The food and prices may not be the best right on the Grand Place, arguably the largest tourist draw in Brussels. Most guidebooks will tell you to head a block or two off the Grand Place for more authentic food and lower prices. But what atmosphere! On a beautiful day like the one on which I arrived in Brussels, tables on this terrace on the Grand Place were coveted.
Architecture, Underwear and Piss
Yes, everyone flocks to the Grand Place. Musicians play for donations (there was an entire string quartet outside when we passed by), vendors sell their wares, and there is lots and lots of picture taking. Still, it's worth a visit, if only because of the breathtaking architecture. Many of the buildings once served as guildhouses for the city's artisans. One houses a museum that hosts a collection of costumes sent by world leaders for the city's unofficial mascot - a fountain with a statue of a little boy peeing, called Mannekin Pis.
Surrounding Grand Place are shops, restaurants, and odd museums (like the unlikely Underwear Museum).
I've Died and Gone to Chocolate Heaven
Just across from another beautiful historic building, the Grand Sablon was a street I've dreamt about for most of my life but never knew existed. Let's just call it "chocolate street." All of the powerhouses of fresh, handmade, rich and delicious chocolate, lined up on a single city block. I had to just stop and gaze in Heavenly disbelief. Neuhaus (shown above). Pierre Marcolini. Wittamer. Godiva. Leonidas. My mouth waters just remembering the feast of hazelnut praline, dark chocolate, honey caramel, and about thirty more flavors (like Earl Grey tea) I'd never thought would taste so good mixed with chocolate. Mmmmmmmmm. If you go, send me a care package, wouldja?
What Not to Eat
On the same street -- let's say it again, Chocolate Street -- we stumbled upon a small cafe for lunch. L'Entree des Artistes had plenty of classic Belgian dishes on the menu. Unfortunately for us, we weren't all that familiar with classic Belgian dishes, and the menu was written in French. I was translating OK until I came across a word I drew a blank on. When I asked the manager to translate, he couldn't recall the English word.
So, being just that dedicated to customer service, he proceeded to pantomime the word. After a few minutes of him flapping his wings and buzzing with a pen sticking out of his mouth, I got it: "Honey!" Unfortunately, he didn't recognize the English word when I said it, and continued to buzz around the sidewalk. What a sport.
Are We Screaming Yet?
When we finally managed to order at L'Entree des Artistes (side dishes were easy -- like every other sidewalk cafe in Brussels, they serve frites), we tried a Belgian classic dish, Carbonnade a la Flamande. It's basically a flavorful beef stew made with Belgian beer, and delicious. We also tried the crevettes grises, tiny gray shrimp that are on every menu. I'm normally a seafood lover, but I'd rather use them for bait to catch something worth eating.
Antiques, If You're Into That Sort of Thing
Even those who were not quite as excited as I was about the Street of Chocolate were enthusiastic about the Pierre Marcolini ice cream stand right next to L'Entrees des Artistes. The chic and famed chocolatier had someone dishing out ice cream that was no doubt also chic and possibly famous.
I'm Just Not That Into You
OK, it's not actually called Chocolate Street, even though that's how I'll fondly remember it. It's the Place du Grand Sablon, and on weekends it's the site of a popular antiques market. The Place du Grand Sablon is about halfway between the beautiful architecture and busy shops of the Grand Place, and the upscale, fashion-forward Avenue Louise on the edge of town. All is walkable.
The Best Mussels I've Ever Had. Ever.
I'll be honest: I'm not really a museum person. So I was relieved when the day we were scheduled to visit the Royal Museums of Fine Arts, it was a gray and rainy day outside. I wasn't missing anything. That being said, if you, like what I perceive to be every other person who travels, loves museums, this one is worth a visit. Plenty of Dutch masters, an entire wing of modern art, and an impressive (even to me) collection of 15th to 17th century art. Plus the building is remarkable.
Our last meal in Brussels was at a restaurant that wasn't mentioned in any of the guidebooks we brought along; we simply stumbled upon it on the way back to our hotel. Le Trappist Taverne Restaurant was a touristy-looking place on an expensive shopping street, so we frankly expected to overpay and be underwhelmed. What a surprise awaited us! The mussels were, hands-down, the plumpest, juiciest, most deliciously seasoned mussels I've ever had the pleasure of putting in my mouth.
They were so good, we were sad to be leaving for Paris. Paris! Yes, they were that good.
Before I went to Brussels, I'd been told comic strips were very popular. I knew about Tintin, but I'd never come across this character before. Maybe one of you can tell me who it is. I'm pretty sure I once had a nightmare that looked something like this. At any rate, this was a convenient place to secure a bicycle, right outside of the famous pub, A La Mort Subite.
Update: Rudy writes in to say, "The sculpture, La Cycliste, is by the artist and cat lover, Alain Séchas.
Check out his site."
Sudden Death at A La Mort Subite
We took a roundabout walk from Brussels' Grand Place on a hot day, and ended up, thankfully, at A La Mort Subite. Famous for its beer of the same name (the name translates to Sudden Death), the family-run pub has the same decor as when it originally opened in 1928. I'm not a big beer drinker, but even I found a beer I liked here. Called Framboises (raspberries), it had the sweet, light taste of a flavored wine.
Kriek is also popular here; it tastes like cherry soda, with a kick.
Don't Forget to Look Up
The entire length of Galeries Royales St. Hubert is covered in a glass ceiling. The building is filled with shops and cafes, but even if you're not in a shopping mood, the building is worth stopping in to see. Inside, seating in the style of sidewalk cafes allow patrons to people-watch without staying outside in the weather. What will you find there? Chocolate, clothing, shoes, and more chocolate.
Must Have Moules et Frites
We heard about the self-proclaimed "world famous" Chez Leon from the cab driver within minutes of arriving in Brussels. Situated on a side street off the Grand Place filled to bursting with tourist-filled sidewalk cafes, Chez Leon was a festive place to try the Brussels classic, moules et frites (mussels and Belgian-style French fries.) Tables are squeezed together and service is rushed and efficient.
At dusk the entire street lights up with neon. Touristy, yes, but we enjoyed our introduction to Brussels -- although they will tell you, right on the menu, that the mussels are probably from somewhere else.
You're From Where??
At Chez Leon, tables are packed right up next to each other, so you can't help but get to know your neighbor. We visited in August, which is the prime tourist season, and explains why everywhere we went, we sat next to tourists. (That is, everywhere we went on the trip, from Amsterdam to Paris, and not just the touristy areas like this one.) Our neighbor at Chez Leon was visiting from just outside London.
Family-Style Dining on rue des Bouchers
The atmosphere outside Chez Leon on rue des Bouchers, even after dark, was family-friendly. A musician strolled the crowd, playing songs like "Hava Nagila" and the "Chicken Dance." Inexplicably, a man in a Mickey Mouse costume was also entertaining the children. Chez Leon even offers the children's menu free.
The Most Popular Spot to Sit
The food and prices may not be the best right on the Grand Place, arguably the largest tourist draw in Brussels. Most guidebooks will tell you to head a block or two off the Grand Place for more authentic food and lower prices. But what atmosphere! On a beautiful day like the one on which I arrived in Brussels, tables on this terrace on the Grand Place were coveted.
Architecture, Underwear and Piss
Yes, everyone flocks to the Grand Place. Musicians play for donations (there was an entire string quartet outside when we passed by), vendors sell their wares, and there is lots and lots of picture taking. Still, it's worth a visit, if only because of the breathtaking architecture. Many of the buildings once served as guildhouses for the city's artisans. One houses a museum that hosts a collection of costumes sent by world leaders for the city's unofficial mascot - a fountain with a statue of a little boy peeing, called Mannekin Pis.
Surrounding Grand Place are shops, restaurants, and odd museums (like the unlikely Underwear Museum).
I've Died and Gone to Chocolate Heaven
Just across from another beautiful historic building, the Grand Sablon was a street I've dreamt about for most of my life but never knew existed. Let's just call it "chocolate street." All of the powerhouses of fresh, handmade, rich and delicious chocolate, lined up on a single city block. I had to just stop and gaze in Heavenly disbelief. Neuhaus (shown above). Pierre Marcolini. Wittamer. Godiva. Leonidas. My mouth waters just remembering the feast of hazelnut praline, dark chocolate, honey caramel, and about thirty more flavors (like Earl Grey tea) I'd never thought would taste so good mixed with chocolate. Mmmmmmmmm. If you go, send me a care package, wouldja?
What Not to Eat
On the same street -- let's say it again, Chocolate Street -- we stumbled upon a small cafe for lunch. L'Entree des Artistes had plenty of classic Belgian dishes on the menu. Unfortunately for us, we weren't all that familiar with classic Belgian dishes, and the menu was written in French. I was translating OK until I came across a word I drew a blank on. When I asked the manager to translate, he couldn't recall the English word.
So, being just that dedicated to customer service, he proceeded to pantomime the word. After a few minutes of him flapping his wings and buzzing with a pen sticking out of his mouth, I got it: "Honey!" Unfortunately, he didn't recognize the English word when I said it, and continued to buzz around the sidewalk. What a sport.
Are We Screaming Yet?
When we finally managed to order at L'Entree des Artistes (side dishes were easy -- like every other sidewalk cafe in Brussels, they serve frites), we tried a Belgian classic dish, Carbonnade a la Flamande. It's basically a flavorful beef stew made with Belgian beer, and delicious. We also tried the crevettes grises, tiny gray shrimp that are on every menu. I'm normally a seafood lover, but I'd rather use them for bait to catch something worth eating.
Antiques, If You're Into That Sort of Thing
Even those who were not quite as excited as I was about the Street of Chocolate were enthusiastic about the Pierre Marcolini ice cream stand right next to L'Entrees des Artistes. The chic and famed chocolatier had someone dishing out ice cream that was no doubt also chic and possibly famous.
I'm Just Not That Into You
OK, it's not actually called Chocolate Street, even though that's how I'll fondly remember it. It's the Place du Grand Sablon, and on weekends it's the site of a popular antiques market. The Place du Grand Sablon is about halfway between the beautiful architecture and busy shops of the Grand Place, and the upscale, fashion-forward Avenue Louise on the edge of town. All is walkable.
The Best Mussels I've Ever Had. Ever.
I'll be honest: I'm not really a museum person. So I was relieved when the day we were scheduled to visit the Royal Museums of Fine Arts, it was a gray and rainy day outside. I wasn't missing anything. That being said, if you, like what I perceive to be every other person who travels, loves museums, this one is worth a visit. Plenty of Dutch masters, an entire wing of modern art, and an impressive (even to me) collection of 15th to 17th century art. Plus the building is remarkable.
Our last meal in Brussels was at a restaurant that wasn't mentioned in any of the guidebooks we brought along; we simply stumbled upon it on the way back to our hotel. Le Trappist Taverne Restaurant was a touristy-looking place on an expensive shopping street, so we frankly expected to overpay and be underwhelmed. What a surprise awaited us! The mussels were, hands-down, the plumpest, juiciest, most deliciously seasoned mussels I've ever had the pleasure of putting in my mouth.
They were so good, we were sad to be leaving for Paris. Paris! Yes, they were that good.