Removing Damaged Shingles and Preparing the Underlayment

• 1). Remove the damaged cedar shakes using a pitch fork. Slide the fork underneath each course, or row, of shingles, and pry the deteriorated shingles from the exterior of the house.
  
  
• 2). Examine the exposed surface. Look for any nails or obtrusion. Remove any obtrusion or pound them flush with the underlayment.
  
  
• 3). Cover the surface with 30# felt. Use a stapler to fasten the felt in place. You can affix flashing on the inside corners in order to keep the felt in place and prevent tearing.
  
  
• 4). Create your story pole. Use a pencil to mark the base, or butt line, or each course of shingles. The first course should lie a couple of inches below the house's foundation. Each subsequent butt line should leave about 40 percent of the underlying shingle exposed. Refer to your story pole, and use your chalk line to snap a level line to which you align the base of each shingle as you work.
  
  

Fastening the Shingles

• 1). Use two corrosion-resistant nails to fasten each shingle in place. The nails should be driven about one inch higher than the butt line of the course above the shingles you are fastening. Each nail should be driven three quarters of an inch from the edge of the shingle.
  
  
• 2). Leave about one eigth inch between each shingle to allow for expansion.
  
  
• 3). Work your way from the lowest course up. Stagger the gutters between the courses of shingles. This will provide your siding with greater water resistance.
  
  
• 4). Lace the corners. When you reach a corner, trim the first shingle so that it is flush with the edge of the house. The corresponding corner piece should then be trimmed so that it is flush with the edge of its mated shingle. Alternate this pattern as you work your way up the house. Lacing the corners will provide greater water resistance.