Pruning During the First Year

• Cut back the young tree just 30 to 34 inches above the ground. Cut just the tip of the single stem, after the buds have begun to enlarge. In the winter, once the tree has developed the first two side branches, jointly called a scaffold, head back the tip again. Cut 24 to 30 inches above the scaffold, just as November approaches and the tree has grown dormant. Always cut at an angle to lessen water pooling.
  
  Trimming a tree while it is dormant is the best option for reduced stress. While in dormancy, the tree diverts its energy to the roots beneath the ground and the leader stem. The branches are then able to be clipped back without causing the plum tree more stress than needed.
  
  

Pruning in the Second Year

• Determine the leader stem, the most centered, upright stem in the tree, evaluating the scaffolds from the leader. The growth in mid-summer should be 3 to 4 inches, and will include at least one scaffold whorl. This is four, equally spaced branches, which form an "X" by looking down upon the tree. Leave this scaffold whorl and trim back the other limbs that have begun to grow. Make your cuts at an angle to reduce water pooling, and right beside the leader stem. Do not cut into the leader, it may cause unnecessary stress. As the scaffold whorls begin to grow, keep them 24 to 30 inches apart. If a limb begins to grow too close, it must be removed. Cut back to the leader without cutting into the leader stem tissue.
  
  

Pruning in the Third Year and in Maturity

• Create a uniform shape, such as a pyramidal design and deadhead the limbs to conformity. There should be at least three scaffold whorls by the third year, or 12 equally spaced branches altogether. Cut the tips of the limbs at an angle when deadheading for proper water runoff.
  
  When plum trees first begin to open up in the spring, you will notice tiny limbs that protrude directly upward. These branches are known as water spouts, and their growth shields the spring blooms and foliage from the sun. You should trim these spouts out to allow for proper sunlight distribution. Cut them down to where they meet a lateral branch, without cutting into that lateral branch.
  
  Head out new growth, cutting back to year old wood on each of the limbs. This will create stronger branches and produce secondary, outward limbs. This may also deter the tree from producing heavy blooms the following year. If a stronger tree is your objective, this is the pruning method most desirable. Otherwise, lightly prune the tips of the new growth by deadheading.